No, they haven’t cornered off Albemarle Street for Pony Club Camp, but they have bought the best of India to Mayfair. Inspired by the colonial Indian gymkhana clubs where members of high society came to socialise, dine, drink and play sport, it oozes elegance and temptation - and it does all of the above perfectly, minus the athletics (unless you can count drinking). Step in off the street and you're immediately transported to a bygone era in which you’d expect to see dashing polo players and men in crisp linen suits fanning themselves in clouds of smoke.

Upstairs, you'll find dark wooden walls, hanging fans and marble tables in a formation that brings to mind a vintage train carriage. Downstairs, the vibe is 17th-century East India punch house, with candlelight, Indian beats and hunting trophies. If you're hungry, you'll get a pretty badass Indian (Rick Stein said it was "the best he's had in London". If it's good enough for him, it's good enough for us). The drinks are delicious; sip, close your eyes and you’re in India. The Quinine Sour with Tanqueray Gin, tonic syrup, ginger, curry leaf, lemon and egg white is unsurprisingly popular, and the In the Light of India, in all its pineapple and tequila glory, shone just as brightly. Stay and eat if you can. If the cocktails and bar snacks are anything to go by, you’ll be travelling to India in Mayfair again and again.