Imported from New York, you may be expecting something big, brash and American, but Buvette couldn’t be further from that. This bright, breezy bistro in Pigalle feels like a French Provençal cottage with nicely displayed pastries, a basket of squash by the door and a leg of jamon on the marble bar - so far, so wholesome.

Take your time with the menu - it’s a bound and illustrated booklet. Read through the classic cocktails and carefully sourced wine list, then stop on the DIY Martini station. Yes please. In for a lighter drink? Their ‘apéritifs pétillants’ are refreshing and low proof: we like the St Honore with bubbles, lemon and elderflower.

You need to order food to drink, but it’s all small plates and they’re damn tasty, so do it. One of the growing number of places in Paris offering brunch, it’s only on weekends, but during the week, there’s all-day dining (thank god), and the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs or avocado on toast does the trick. As does a Bloody Mary.